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Thread: Boyd’s Forest Dragon - Gonocephalus boydi

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    Boyd’s Forest Dragon - Gonocephalus boydi

    Gonocephalus boydi
    Boyd’s Forest Dragon

    General Care-
    As with the other forms of bearded dragons Boyd’s require UVA/B lighting to be happy and grow normally without any bone deficiencies. Generally feeding a nice variety of insect’s morning and afternoon will keep them happy for a very long time; I will talk about other food types and supplements a little later on. Boyd’s can usually live for about 10-15yrs (there’s always the odd exception to this rule as with all animals.).

    Enclosure Requirements-
    Boyd’s dragons are more difficult to look after then Bearded Dragons and can grow between around 35cm-45cm with somewhere around 40cm being the norm.
    As full grown adults you can easily keep a pair in a 4ftx3ftx2ft (LxHxD) enclosure.
    Unlike other dragons Boyd’s do not require a basking spot however artificial UVA/B lighting is needed this can be achieved by using MVB light or UVB fluro ect.
    The temperatures you will want to achieve are 25-30c ambient temperature.
    Due to high humidity requirements (80-90%) it is pretty much a must to have a water feature like a waterfall or even a sprinkler system in the enclosure.

    Substrate-
    Best and most common substrate used is Coco Pete or Sphagnum Moss as these will both help hold in the moisture and generally looks nice while keeping the humidity up.

    Lighting-
    Most people will tend to use Bulbs that emit heat AND UVB/A rays like a Mercery Vapour Bulb (MVB), while others will prefer to use a UVB 5.0 fluro to do the job since MVB’s can produce a lot of heat.
    Generally you will want to have the lighting/heating on a 10-12hr a day system I would opt for is 9-10yrs during the winter and 10-12hrs a day during summer.
    Once again if your enclosure gets below 18/19c you will want to look into some kind of heating as temperatures this low will cause respiration problems aver prolonged exposure

    Brumation-
    Brumation (sleeping) is usually done during the winter months drop your temperatures down by a few degree’s to simulate winter, generally your dragon won’t do much but sleep and eat/drink whatever it needs to stay alive this is also an integral part of preparing bearded dragons for breeding.

    Food-
    Feeding your little buddies is extremely easy and feeding them various insects several times a day is quite beneficial for them as it is where they get most of their water from as well as general supplements it is good to add multical vitamins to their food every 2-3 days to help keep their vitamins up.
    Insects like crickets and woodies can be purchased from most pet shops these days and will come with a small packet called gutload add this packet and even some multical vitamins to their container give it a shake before feeding them to your dragons, A general rule of thumb is to feed them as many as they will eat and remove the excess however leaving a few woodies in there for them to snack on at will shouldn’t hurt.
    Sizing the food for your dragon is pretty easy as long as the item is smaller than the distance between the eyes of your dragon it is good to go.
    Various other insects can be fed to them such as silkworms, mealworms, flies, common house cockroaches, Earthworms (easy to culture yourself) ect.

    Sexing-
    Sexing dragons of all types can be quite difficult to do until they mature (12months however some experienced breeders can sex them before this).
    Males tend to be larger than females and have a larger bulkier head

    Breeding-
    Breeding with these little guys will usually start to occur shortly after brumation.
    Once brumation is finished and they start to become more active bump your temperatures back up to the ideal specs and start feeding your pair up.
    The courting ritual will usually take a few weeks of the male constantly chaseing the female around and displaying his bright yellow dewlap, occasionally you may even see the male biting the female on the back of the neck.
    It is also good to feed your full grown female a pinkie mouse once in a while during breeding season to help her build up her reserves.

    Egg laying-
    Once pregnant it usually takes about 3weeks for the female to start filling up with eggs and looking for a place to lay you may notice her running franticly running around the enclosure scratching at the ground eventually she will find a spot she is happy with and start to dig a small ditch and start laying in it.
    Once all is said and done eggs are laid it is time to move them on to the incubator the container for the incubator is usually a Chinese takeaway container half filled with vermiculite dampened with water (grab a handful and squeeze if water drips out u have added to much put more vermiculite in there a mixture of 1-1 is normal) remove the eggs form the enclosure and add them to the incubator box be very careful not to damage the eggs they need to be half submerged and facing the same way they were collected.
    One mating session can produce a clutch size between 1-5 eggs.

    Incubation-
    If you intend to breed these beautiful creatures with any real success you will need to get your hands on an incubator.
    There are a lot of different types that you can use however the cheapest and easiest way is to get an old bar fridge and make your own out of that using a 50wt heat cord, heat controller, thermometer/hydrometer and 2 computer fans. There are plenty of DIY setups online both for purchase and instructions.
    For successful incubation of the eggs you are going to want to keep the temperature between 24 & 27c without any problems, at 26c the eggs should hatch in approximately 70 days. Time mark your calendar for when the clutch is due so you will remember when the little guys will start emerging.
    Below is a link to my home made incubator.
    (http://www.australianbeardies.net/fo...-box-Incubator)

    Babies-
    Caring for your hatchlings is a little more difficult than their parents but just as simular it is easier to use tubs bought from a cheapo shop place a small damp layer of coco pete and a bowl of water in the container and run a UVB fluro above multiple containers at once and using flyscreen / fine mesh for the lid as the UVB rays don’t travel through glass or plastic very well. You should be able to keep a few in each tub once you see fighting occurring split them up further into smaller groups.
    Feeding the little guys some pinhead crickets and very small woodies gutloading these is a good idea another option is chopped up earthworms.
    Boyd’s are best kept until they are about 4-6wks old before selling onto other people.
    In order to sell these baby’s you will need to contact your local epa for a movement advice the Queensland one can be found here in this link,
    http://www.derm.qld.gov.au/services_...?item_id=33503
    Current Dragons - 1x Pair of Pygmy Dragons,
    Other Reps' - Lots of Jungle Pythons,
    (WTS - Tully Jungle Hatchies $250ea See FB dreaded_pets@live.co​m.au

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    these are an awesome looking lizard

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